Crochet mouse tutorial and free pattern

Squeakers!

Its finally here!!

How to make your own tiny, adorable crochet mouse… just in time for Christmas!

I found the best results with these mousies using 4ply sock yarn and a 2.5mm hook. I also made some with 3ply and a 2mm hook. I’ve yet to try this pattern with any heavier weight yarn, and I must admit I’m reluctant to, as I like the small size that the lighter weight yarn and small hook gives… I may well yet try one an even smaller mouse (squeakness… baby mice!)

These mice are about 6-7cm tall (2.5 inches) and are perfect for small hands. Holding….and loving♥…or even adventuring…These cuties are made in four pieces- the body, with arms, legs and tail are crocheted all as one piece. Head and ears are crocheted separately and then sewn together. A clever little stitch called a 3 dc pop (or popcorn stitch) is used for hands and feet. It goes like this: Work 3 dc into third ch from hook, take hook out leaving loop, put hook through 1st dc & pull loop through. Hopefully the photos below will help this make sense!

Other stitches/abbreviations (all US crochet terms):

• ss = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• dc = double crochet
• st = stitch
• ch = chain
• Sc2tog = single crochet two together (decrease)

One other note, please use a marker to mark your rounds and keep track of where you are up to. And count your stitches at the end of each round. If you don’t, the arms and legs are less likely to match up.

I know some of you are going to go ahead and not use a marker. If you lose your place or end up a stitch or two out you can always eyeball it – just remember to make sure your legs are in the same stitch on the round as your arms (so they line up)!Lets begin….

First up we are going to make the body:
Round 1: Make a magic circle ch 1 and work 6 sc;

Pull tight – 6 st.

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around – 12 st.

Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] repeat around – 18 st.

Round 4: Sc in each st around – 18 st.

Round 5: Sc in next 6 st, [arm: ss into next st, ch 6, …3dc pop into 3rd ch from hook, …ss into next 3 ch, ss back into original st], …sc in next 6 st, [arm], sc in next 4 st – 18 st.

Round 6 – 11: Sc in each st around – 18 st.Round 12:  Sc in next 8 st. [leg: ss into next st, ch 8, 3dc pop into 3rd ch from hook, ss into next 5, ss back into original st], sc in next 6 st, [leg], sc in next 2 st (18)Round 13: Sc2tog, sc in next st, ss into next st, [tail: ch 22, ss into second ch from hook and each st, back into original st] sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog (12) At this point you are going to stuff your wee mousie… Round 14: Once you have stuffed it, sc 2tog until hole is closed. Fasten off leaving long end, sew in ends and securely close hole.

Head:
Round 1: Make a magic circle ch 1 and work 6 sc into mc – 6 st.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around – 12 st.
Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] repeat around – 18 st.
Round 4-5: Sc in each st around – 18 st.
Round 6: Sc2tog, sc in next 2x 4, Scin last 2 – 14 st.
Round 7: Sc2tog, sc in next st x4, Sc2tog – 9st. Stuff as much as possible.

Round 8: Sc2tog, sc in next st x4, ss into next st and FO leaving a long end.Sew head onto body…

Ears:
Round 1: Magic circle, ch1 and 8 sc in circle. Pull tight, do not join. 2sc in each st around, ss into next st. Fasten off and leave long end… Sew in ends, then sew ears to head.Sew face in place… no real instructions here, just use your imagination. I like mousies with a pink nose and black 8ply yarn for the eyes and a tiny mouth. I tried a french knot for eyes but actually just like eyes which are a tiny stitch or two in the right spot. The face gives each one an individual personality 🙂Enjoy your new wee friend!

But be careful… they’re addictive and before you know it they multiply… like… well… mice!I hope you enjoy making these mousies as much as I do! If you do give them a try, Id love to see how they turn out so send me a pic. If you notice any errors in the pattern, please let me know!

Edit to add: Find a Christmas hat and scarf for your mousie here.

And you can find out how to make a cute mouse bed, here.

 

Small projects

It was a beautiful day here today, but when I went outside to take some photos I had trouble with sun strike on the mirror and a photo bombing cat!

Sometimes when you are busy, you need a small project that can be finished quickly like a crochet cuff. Ive made a few of these Bodega Bay cuffs, this one matches my new sky blue blouse perfectly.  It’s not a free pattern, but you might be able to track down an old copy of interweave crochet spring 2012 which the pattern was in. The Daphne is positively delicious, I wish I could share the scent with you over the internet! ♥ Janette x

PS. If you are looking for a free crochet cuff pattern check this one out… Ive made a few of these too. And if you know of any other cool free crochet cuffs leave a comment, Id love to find some new ones.

New crochet cardigan

My new crochet cardigan is finished…

This cardigan is based on this free pattern. I say based because although I really liked the overall look and style, it became apparent very quickly that I wouldn’t need to make the number of increases indicated even though I chose the smallest size. Although the yarn I purchased was 8ply, I think its more like a worsted weight so that probably contributed to it growing so quickly making the high number of increases and rows for the yoke unnecessary.

So I just increased as I felt it needed (trying on every few rows) to ensure the perfect fit and stopping once I thought it was long enough before beginning the clusters for the bottom section.

The pattern for the arms should have had a 25 stitch panel through the inside which I didn’t bother with, instead choosing to have the clusters all the way around the arm.Because of the weight of the yarn it grew really quickly, taking less than a week to finish (also a good measure of a great project in my book), so no time to get bored and quick gratification!I love crochet cardigans that are worked in one piece, like this one… and the others I have made for myself… You can see them here, here and here.

Would I make it again? Yes, I think so. I think it would be really nice in cotton with cap sleeves for summer – without any clusters.

What do you think? Have you made a crochet cardigan you love? Do you have any crochet garments?

Owl mittens

It is starting to get cooler here, so I whipped up both the kids some fingerless mittens this week. Really there is not much simpler than a basic fingerless mitten. I confess, I don’t even bother to shape them… just crochet a rectangle and sew up the side leaving a thumb hole.

Here’s a quick tutorial so you can make some for a little person you know… or maybe even yourself! The owl – once again inspired by Jacqui – is a tiny version made mostly with half double crochets. For anyone bored of owls, I promise these will be the last ones – for a little while at least 🙂 If you fancy a pair of even easier rainbow mittens check out my other tutorial here.

Ingredients:

• Yarn in desired weight, with appropriate sized hook for the mittens… I used a light worsted merino and a 4mm hook. Any yarn and hook combination will work fine, just make sure the ‘fabric’ is soft and has a bit of give (not stiff and unwieldy).
• Small amount of 4 colors of yarn for the owls.
• Even smaller amount of white yarn for the eyes.
• 4 small buttons for eye centers.

First up, crochet a chain that will fit snugly around the largest part of the hand (ie. just under the thumb).

Using this as your guide for width, crochet back and forth (I use singe crochet) to create a rectangle that is the length you want to reach from just below the second knuckle to wrist. Remeber to add a chain 1 at the end of each row to keep everything square.

For Maia’s gloves (just as a guide) my foundation chain was 22, and they are 24 rows wide.

Sew up the short edge, leaving a small gap (about 1 inch) for the thumb hole:

Repeat for the other glove 🙂

Owl motif. This is a pretty cute but rather small owl (measuring 7cm (2 3/4inches) wide and 8cm (3 1/4 inches) tall).

1. Make a magic circle and chain 2, half double crochet (hdc) into the circle 11 times (12 hdc). Pull tight and join with a ss to complete ring: Fasten off.

2. Join new color and chain 2, hdc in same space. Crochet 2hdc in each space between around (12, 2hdc pairs): Fasten off.

3. Join new color; Crochet 3 hdc in each space between pairs around (12, 3hdc clusters): Fasten off.

You are now going to be crocheting the body of the owl; I apologize for not getting a picture of this; here’s the final product:

Body- in contrasting (brown) yarn:

4. In this round we will shape the owls head, the stitches of this round are worked into each of the stitches of the previous round (not between the clusters).  Attach new color using a slip stitch and chain 2. In the next stitch make 2 hdc, then make 1 hdc in each of the next 2 stitches, then 2 hdc in the next stitch. 1 hdc in each of next two stitches, then 2 hdc in next stitch. 1 sc in next stitch and every stitch around… Slip stitch into initial 2 chain to complete the round.

5. Next round (same color do not fasten off) Chain 1 and work 2 hdc in next stitch. 1 hdc in next stitch, 1 sc in next stitch, 1 ss in each of next 3 stitches. Then 1 sc in next stitch, 1 hdc in next, 2 hdc in next and 1 sc. Chain 1, then slip stitch into next stitch and fasten off. Leave a long end to sew your owl to the gloves.

Eyes:

Make a magic circle and chain 2, hdc into the circle 7 times, pull tight and join with a slip stitch to finish. Fasten off leaving a long end to sew eye in place. Repeat three more times for other eyes.

Put it all together:

Position eyes on owl and sew in place using long ends, then sew buttons (using black yarn). Sew beak carefully in between eyes using orange yarn (I find doubled thread works best). Once owl is assembled, sew onto outside of mitten, taking care because if one front has the thumb hole on the right, then the other one must have the thumb hole on the left 🙂 I chose to do this after the mittens were sewn up because it meant I could pin the owl in place when Maia had the gloves on to position them so it looked best.

Twit twoooo… you’re finished!  Enjoy your owl mitts!

A very Christmasy tea cosy

You know Christmas must be right around the corner when a crochet Christmas tea cosy shows up!

This was a gift for our lovely neighbour, and I really loved every minute of making it… Right from the holly leaves (which were made in cotton in the hope they would curl a little)…

To the little red holly berries and the Christmasy flowers.A cup of tea from this pot is bound to get even the grinchiest grinch into the Christmas spirit!But since Ive now given this one away I might have to make another to add to my growing collection of crochet tea cosies! I hope you like it as much as Stephanie did, and that you are having a wonderful day Jx.

Ps. If you haven’t visited before you can find the pattern for the cosy here. The links for the flowers and holly are in the text above.

Crochet ripple dress

Earlier this winter I made this lovely ripple dress (maybe you would call it a tunic?) for Maia. I love that it turned out exactly as I imagined it would, stylish but warm too… The perfect winter garment for a busy little girl!

Would you like to make one too? It’s not difficult, and Ive broken it up into sections to make it easier to follow.

You will need:
1-2 balls in each color of 8ply yarn (I used a merino wool which was a nice light/soft yarn- but Im guessing it would be lovely in a cotton or cotton blend too if you wanted a dress that you could wear across seasons)
4mm hook

Dress section:

First up you need to make the ripple section. Rather than re-write a whole tutorial on how to crochet a perfect ripple, I suggest you use these fabulous ripple instructions, starting with a chain of 101 (98 + 3), this comfortably fits my five and a half year old who is quite tall for her age. I’d suggest about 94 (91 + 3) would suit a 3-4 year old and probably 108 (105 + 3) would be right for a 6-7 year old. You might have to play around a bit to get it right… make a start – maybe ripple 4 or so rows, pin it together to form a tube and try it on to see how it fits, you want a bit of room so it’s not going to be restrictive.

In terms of length I went for 11 pairs of rows and the first row as a single row. The first row will become the bottom of your dress, and this will have a picot edge in the same color, which evens up the rows. Really how long you want it to be is up to you and the height of your model. Sew the edges together to form a tube, this is your dress section completed.

Now let’s get started on the yoke…

With the right side facing out, join your contrasting color to the center back (ie this is the seam you have just sewn up) and crochet around the top of your last row of the ripple (the magneta row above), putting a single crochet into the top of each double crochet around. Continue working in a continuous circle (don’t join at the end of the round) for 15 rows. I did a decrease row at row number 5 because I tried it on at this point and wanted to make the top a little more fitting. On this row I decreased; *sc 5x, sc 2 together (decrease)* repeat between * and * around the entire row. Once again this might take a bit of trying on to get right… But that’s the beauty of a custom made garment, you can get the fit perfect!

Mark out the straps.

With the right side facing count your stitches all the way around the top of the yoke.  With a small piece of contrasting yarn mark the center back and center front.  Now you need to turn on your mathematical brain for this bit! Your straps are going to be 8 stitches wide… so you need to figure out an even number of stitches between your straps. There is 7 stitches between the front center and the start of my straps… so I counted 7 stitches past the center marker and marked it out with a piece of yarn:Repeat this step and mark the center back, and count 7 stitches either side and mark to show where your straps will be joined.

The straps are crocheted on the front of dress with right side facing. You will begin the straps on the left or right to ensure each strap starts on a right side row, so use the left front start at marker and work to left for 8 stitches. The right strap will start 7 stitches past marker, and work back to finish on marker (making the strap 8 stitches wide).  Working back and forth, sc in each stitch across 8 stitches, chain 1 and turn. Repeat until straps are desired length (pin them up, try on and see). These straps are 36 rows long.

Sew the back of the straps in place corresponding with the marked stitches.

Complete the yoke:

Join a new piece of yarn at the center back, ch 1 and sc in each stitch around working 1 sc into each stitch all around the neckline, but decreasing – sc2tog at the four points where the straps join to the bodice. This will tighten in the yoke and make it sit nicely. Continue in this way for 5 rounds, decreasing at each of the four points on each round.  Fasten off.

Outer strap and picot edge:

Join a new piece of yarn in the center of the arm hole and sc in each stitch around. Round 2, Sc in the first 9 stitches and then picot (worked over 3 stitches): 2 dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch, ss in next stitch, repeat 8 times; or until desired cap sleeve is achieved. Repeat for both straps. See photo below for detail:

Bottom edge of dress:
With right side facing, Row 1: Sc in each stitch around. Row 2: Picot row – Worked over 3 stitches; *2dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch, ss in next stitch*, repeat between * and * around, join with a ss to finish.

Weave ball ends and that’s it you are all done! Enjoy!

As always, let me know if you have any questions or notice any mistakes! Jxx