Crochet yoke dress – The Green Dragonfly

Earlier this winter I made this lovely ripple dress (maybe you would call it a tunic?) for Maia. I love that it turned out exactly as I imagined it would, stylish but warm too… The perfect winter garment for a busy little girl!

Would you like to make one too? It’s not difficult, and Ive broken it up into sections to make it easier to follow.

You will need:
1-2 balls in each color of 8ply yarn (I used a merino wool which was a nice light/soft yarn- but Im guessing it would be lovely in a cotton or cotton blend too if you wanted a dress that you could wear across seasons)
4mm hook

Dress section:

First up you need to make the ripple section. Rather than re-write a whole tutorial on how to crochet a perfect ripple, I suggest you use these fabulous ripple instructions, starting with a chain of 101 (98 + 3), this comfortably fits my five and a half year old who is quite tall for her age. I’d suggest about 94 (91 + 3) would suit a 3-4 year old and probably 108 (105 + 3) would be right for a 6-7 year old. You might have to play around a bit to get it right… make a start – maybe ripple 4 or so rows, pin it together to form a tube and try it on to see how it fits, you want a bit of room so it’s not going to be restrictive.

In terms of length I went for 11 pairs of rows and the first row as a single row. The first row will become the bottom of your dress, and this will have a picot edge in the same color, which evens up the rows. Really how long you want it to be is up to you and the height of your model. Sew the edges together to form a tube, this is your dress section completed.

Now let’s get started on the yoke…

With the right side facing out, join your contrasting color to the center back (ie this is the seam you have just sewn up) and crochet around the top of your last row of the ripple (the magneta row above), putting a single crochet into the top of each double crochet around. Continue working in a continuous circle (don’t join at the end of the round) for 15 rows. I did a decrease row at row number 5 because I tried it on at this point and wanted to make the top a little more fitting. On this row I decreased; *sc 5x, sc 2 together (decrease)* repeat between * and * around the entire row. Once again this might take a bit of trying on to get right… But that’s the beauty of a custom made garment, you can get the fit perfect!

Mark out the straps.

With the right side facing count your stitches all the way around the top of the yoke. With a small piece of contrasting yarn mark the center back and center front. Now you need to turn on your mathematical brain for this bit! Your straps are going to be 8 stitches wide… so you need to figure out an even number of stitches between your straps. There is 7 stitches between the front center and the start of my straps… so I counted 7 stitches past the center marker and marked it out with a piece of yarn:Repeat this step and mark the center back, and count 7 stitches either side and mark to show where your straps will be joined.

The straps are crocheted on the front of dress with right side facing. You will begin the straps on the left or right to ensure each strap starts on a right side row, so use the left front start at marker and work to left for 8 stitches. The right strap will start 7 stitches past marker, and work back to finish on marker (making the strap 8 stitches wide). Working back and forth, sc in each stitch across 8 stitches, chain 1 and turn. Repeat until straps are desired length (pin them up, try on and see). These straps are 36 rows long.

Sew the back of the straps in place corresponding with the marked stitches.

Complete the yoke:

Join a new piece of yarn at the center back, ch 1 and sc in each stitch around working 1 sc into each stitch all around the neckline, but decreasing – sc2tog at the four points where the straps join to the bodice. This will tighten in the yoke and make it sit nicely. Continue in this way for 5 rounds, decreasing at each of the four points on each round. Fasten off.

Outer strap and picot edge:

Join a new piece of yarn in the center of the arm hole and sc in each stitch around. Round 2, Sc in the first 9 stitches and then picot (worked over 3 stitches): 2 dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch, ss in next stitch, repeat 8 times; or until desired cap sleeve is achieved. Repeat for both straps. See photo below for detail:

Bottom edge of dress:
With right side facing, Row 1: Sc in each stitch around. Row 2: Picot row – Worked over 3 stitches; *2dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch, ss in next stitch*, repeat between * and * around, join with a ss to finish.

Weave ball ends and that’s it you are all done! Enjoy!

As always, let me know if you have any questions or notice any mistakes! Jxx

Maia’s new dress is finished… a beautiful red crochet yoke and a cotton skirt, Im feeling pretty happy with myself actually!

Because I love you guys, Ive included a tut so you can make something similar for a beautiful little girl in your life too. This dress is totally customisable, and can easily be made to fit any size or shape. No small person… why not make one for yourself?

Crochet Yoke Dress Tutorial

I used a 4mm hook and 8ply cotton to make this yoke. If you choose a different weight yarn choose an appropriate hook.

First up you need to make the motifs you are going to join together to make your dress yoke. Ive drawn up a chart for the square I used for this yoke here… but any square you choose will probably be just fine. Once your squares are sewn together they need to measure the same distance as the chest measurement of the dress. This dress needed 10 squares joined to measure around Maia’s chest. It’s simple to make this dress as big or as small as you like – just increase or decrease the number of squares you make.

You also need to crochet your straps. To make these straps, chain 7 then single crochet in the second chain from the hook and in every chain across. Chain 1, turn and crochet back in each stitch across. Repeat until the straps are long enough- about 20 rows. Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew the straps to the yoke.

Sew your squares together. I left a gap so I could add buttons to the back to make getting the dress on or off easier, really I’m not sure you need this because the cotton has plenty of stretch… but you decide. Check that it fits at this point, if you are a little out you may be able to add a row or two of single crochet to increase the size slightly- you definitely don’t want it to be too tight.

Single crochet all the way around the yoke (top and bottom). If you are going to add buttons crochet button holes on one of the ends by chaining two, skipping two stitches and then single crochet three, chain two, skip two stitches and single crochet to the end of the last square. Once you have finished, sew your straps on. When the straps are in place single crochet another full round (including the neck line and underarm) and two rows of single crochet all around the bottom.

Cut out your dress – see the suggestions here. Use any fabric you like, I chose a cotton drill of a medium weight, a stretch would also be nice, and because a knit is unlikely to fray you could probably get away without over sewing your edges. Up cycle an old item of clothing- a dress of skirt which you love and is now out of date or too small, there are so many possibilities!

Sew your side seams together and over sew all edges to reduce fraying.

With right sides facing pin yoke to the dress top- if you’ve got the measurements right your dress top should be the same size!

I sew the two pieces together with the right sides showing so I can see exactly how it will look when its finished. I make small stitches on the diagonal.

From the fabric to over the top of the edge of the bottom single crochet chain.

Which when pulled tight are pretty much invisible:

Once you have finished sewing the yoke on, position and sew on buttons if you are using them.

Measure and pin hem. When Im sewing girl’s skirts and dresses, I like to do this by measuring down all the way from the top of the yoke… this ensures I have the same length the entire way round.

Sew hem in place evenly using a seam marker on your machine- I used the 15mm mark. This gives the hem an even seam all the way around even if you are like me and the original cut was crooked.